When putting together an EZ Sunscreen Kit there are a few things to keep in mind...

  • Correct understanding of our measurements and sizes.
    • We ALWAYS measure in "INCHES"
    • Width ALWAYS comes before Height (Width x Height)
    • Our 1" corners add 2" to the frame's total width and height. (Reference "Window Types" Diagram for further explanation)
  • Having the required tools, assuring that you're comfortable using them and follow recommended safety precautions.
  • Take into consideration that fabric colors may vary depending on lighting, angle and picture to person.
  • Understand that the frame is mounted on the outside of the house.
  • Understand that some windows may require alternative methods of mounting and to check your house to make sure you our methods will work for you.
  • If your measurements are larger than 58" it is recommended to use a spreader bar so that your frame does not hour-glass during the splining process. (Hour-glassing deforms your frame, bowing it inwards, complicating the splining process and resulting in a bent frame)
  • Taking on a do-it-yourself project means taking on the cost of any mistakes. To limit mistakes, take the time to understand what you'll be doing and plan for each step.


    a. Mark your first measurement on your frame with your pen. REMEMBER: Measure twice, order an EZ Sunscreen Kit once

    b. Using your saw, cut your frame on your mark.

    c. Copy the cut piece by measurement or lining it on top of your uncut piece, trace the size and cut. (Typically, so long as you're within 1/16" - 1/8" of your measurements, you shouldn't have any problems. You're provided wiggle room by following our instructions, the 1" Straight cut corners provide an additional 1" on width, as well as height, which is important for the installation.)

    d. Repeat a, b and with your second measurement.


    a. Slide your straight-cut corners into the ends of your frame, assuring that your two width pieces are across from each other, and your two height pieces are across from each other.

    b. Complete ether a rectangle or square depending on your measurements.


    a. Set up a table which will allow you to clamp down all four corners. Alternatively, you can use an appropriate size piece of plywood on top of sawhorses, chairs or anything that will raise it up, keep it in place and allow you to clamp down the frame.

    b. Set up your frame on a table groove side up, placing a clamp on each of the corners. If you're using a spreader bar, (Spreader Bar instructions below) measure the half-way distance across the longest side of your frame (regardless of being width or height) and mark it one both sides with your pencil. (This helps indicate where your spreader bar should be while you're splining and helps you know if it moves during the process) Notice there will be a gap between your spreader bar and frame. (Frames are manufactured to bow outwards to allow the splined material to pull inward.

    How to Create a Spreader Bar:

    c. On the shortest of your frame, use an extra piece of frame or wood (no higher than the frame) to mark the length of the inside of the frame, or you can use the value of your shortest measurement. Make sure your spreader bar fits snug between the inside of the frame.

    d. Lay your Material over the frame evenly so the sides run even with the frame.

    e. Picking any corner to begin, run your spline tool into the material to push it into the groove 6"- 8" towards the ending in the corner. We will refer to this as "digging the trench."

    f. Lay your spline into the trench, poke it into the groove with the pointy end of your provided spline tool (or a screwdriver), then use the roller wheel to secure the few inches of spline you just placed. This acts as a "place holder."

    g. Move to another corner and pull your material straight and snug, once again with your spline tool dig the trench 6" - 8" creating another place holder. Loosely lay your spline straight across to your new groove and secure your spline into the 6" - 8" material groove. (You should have a nice crisp edge along your material)

    h. Repeat step 3-e two times on the remaining corners. (Your material should now all be pulled tight across your entire frame) Roll 3"-4" of spline in the middle of your frame between each of the corners, once again acting as place holders.

    i. Go back to the beginning corner, where you started your spline, dig a trench 10"-12", keep downward pressure with your spline tool as you stretch the spline and hold it down inside the ditch as you roll.

    j. Your material should have a nice smooth crisp edge on the inside of the spline. When you get to your middle points, simply remove your place holders and roll your spline in and continue.

    k. Once you've splined your screen, cut off your extra spline where your frame ends in your last corner and poke in the remaining portion of spline into your corner. Roll your spline tool over your spline around the frame once more, just to ensure that it's in securely.

    l. IF you have any bubbles along your edges, tug the excess material outwards until the spline loosens, tug and hold your material as you run the spline back in with your roller and your bubble should disappear.


    a. Before you begin, be sure to use a new razor blade (or your material may not cut right). Start in any corner holding your razor knife at roughly a 45-degreee angle inwards against the frame, AWAY from the screen, (left side of the spline) lightly pull the material outwards as you slowly slide your knife down and cut the material. (Go slow, knives tend to slip)

    b. Inspect your screen the front and back of your screen for a smooth contour.